Paper Mache Beads

Here are a string of beads and earrings I made for Jan Maynard's class in Longmont recently.  As everything visible had to be some type of plant material, the necklace was strung on hemp cord.  The metal pierced-earring posts were hidden by the paper mache beads.  On the necklace, there is a knot before and after each bead to keep it in place.

Paint is not organic, but there was no penalty for using it.  I used gold paint and then covered it in spots with a chalk paint used for furniture.  Because of the flash and black background, the paint doesn't show up as well as it does with the human eye.

The beads and hole will shrink as they dry.

Paper Mache beads process:

• make paper mache
• form the balls with big-enough holes
• a couple a day until firm, reform beads and holes
• sand if necessary
• paint
• seal

To make paper mache, use any kid's recipe - torn up newspaper and water.  Us a large pot and spoons no longer needed for cooking as the printer's ink stains.  Bring the mixture to a boil with the lid on, and let it cool naturally.  Stir occasionally.

I tried several ways of getting it pulpier - small pieces of newspaper before cooking as well as blending, mixing with hand mixer and letting it sit overnight after cooking.  I was happiest with small pieces and letting it sit overnight with an occasional stirring.

Before making beads, add white kid's or school glue (I used Elmers).  I have used a lot and a little glue, and both worked fine.  Last time I made them, I used a fourth of a cup for four or five cups of pulp.

I made the beads using medical gloves as the pulp also stains your hands and nails.

To make the beads,  the mixture should be wet but not too wet.  If it looks on the dry side and falls apart when making the beads, it is too dry.  If it looks wet and droops immediately when you set it on wax paper or tin foil, it is too wet.   To change consistency, one can add more water or squeeze the pulp.

The practically difference between just right and too wet is that if it is too wet, you will have to reshape the beads many, many times during first couple of days of drying.  Otherwise, you will have to reshape them only many times.

Holes are another issue.  Obviously the earring beads do not need them.  They will be glued to the posts.

The beads for the necklace will need holes.  I used a combination of tooth picks, coffee swizzle sticks and k'bob sticks.  I found that if I made the holes when I made the beads and didn't leave the sticks in the paper mache, I had to remake the holes as the bead dried.  If I did leave the sticks in, I had to move them around while the bead dried so they didn't become permanently embedded.

There will be a competition in the spring at the Home and Garden show, and if I work out my issues will probably enter.

More on the issues later...